Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
